How to cook the perfect rabas, the Cantabrian fried squids
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Total: 15 min Diners: 4
In Cantabria, the appetizer par excellence are the rabas. What in many places they call fried squid but sold in rings, in Cantabria they cut into strips and turn this frying into almost a liturgy. Then they say that it is the Andalusians who take the frying to the altars! Cantabria smells of frying and smells of rabas and there is no more popular snack to go to the beach than the rabas sandwich, even if you do not make a pilgrimage to the Plaza Mayor to enjoy it.
In Spain there are many places where fried squid are famous, that’s just the way it is. Of course, without alioli and for me also without lemon, but we are not going to ban those who like that piece of lemon nearby. But I have to say it: lemon is a flavor masker. If we want to appreciate the flavor of a good squid properly, with that sweet aftertaste at the end, we shouldn’t put even a drop of lemon on the rabas.
The funny thing is that you go around Cantabria and there is no place where they serve them the same as another. The breading changes a lot and also, of course, the quality of the squid and the care of the oil in which they fry the rabas. If I am asked about my favorites, I will always say that in Madrid they are from the Cañadío group. In Cantabria they prepare them with a lot of art in La Tucho (Soto de la Marina), in Bodega del Riojano (Santander), in Solana’s bar (La Bien Aparecida) in Burdo (Liencres) and also in El Machi (Santander); they have been my favorites lately.
If we want to split hairs, the “premium” rabas are of magano or peludín, because the squid is tender, but with its bite, although they are not usually the ones that abound everywhere. We are talking about squid, not drag squid, which are caught one by one. Cheap rabas? The ones made with squid, but they are more chewy, it must be said.
The important thing here is to cut the squid well, clean them well and also dredge them in flour carefully. We will have to shake them very well so that there is no excess of flour and fry them over a high heat so that they do not become oily and the squid do not overcook, because they can become hard. It is always advisable to fry in a deep fryer or in a ladle of high walls, with abundant oil, so that the squid are always submerged. These fried squid then serve us to make, for example, a ceviche carretillero as they serve in Distrito Ceviche (I loved their ceviches, and everything I ate there, really) or to finish on top of a black rice mellow squid.
How to make perfect squid rabas
Ingredients
. Large squid, 2 pc Wheat flour, 300 g Flour for frying, 50 g Extra virgin olive oil (for frying), abundant Salt, c/s
Step 1
Clean the squid very well under cold running water, thus removing all the innards. Reserve the inks for another time, I put them in plastic wrap and freeze them to use them when I need them. Next, separate the head from the body, remove the feather and remove the fins.
Step 2
Also peel the squid, removing the darker outer skin. Peel also the fins and open the tube on one side, like making a whole squid fillet.
Step 3
On the inside, the squid also has a webbing. I recommend removing it with a little patience so that there are no tight areas. There are also some harder parts and those I remove with the help of a knife.
Step 4
Remove the eyes from the head and mouth and cut the tentacles part. Also cut the squid tube into strips.
Step 5
In a wide bowl place the flour and mix. Gradually put the rabas in the flour and mix well, so that there are no pieces without flour in any way.
Step 6
Heat the oil, abundantly, in a high-walled saucepan over high heat. When it starts to get very hot, lower slightly. Then drain the rabas very well, removing the excess flour and fry for a short time but over high heat.
Step 7
When the rabas are well browned, remove with a skimmer and place on a plate with kitchen paper to absorb any remaining fat.